This is hard to treat after your birds get it. If one of your chickens has contracted mites isolate it from the others. Rub Frontline or Advantix for small kittens on the neck, in the ‘wingpits’, a bit by the vent, and just a tiny drop on the back. Do not overdose. Only do this once. Then you can spray commercial, made-for birds’ mite spray on and around the bird for about a week. Quarintine the chicken for about forty days. Spray it every Monday and Friday when quarantined. If mites persist take your bird to avian vet as soon as possible.

Clean the structure of the other birds with lots of disinfectant to prevent them from getting mites. Hang a mite protector on the wire. Spray the other birds with the remainder of the commercial mite remover. Make sure they have plenty of dust to bathe in; this generally removes lice. Clean yourself well too, because if you have indoor parrots you do not want to give the lice to them. Sometimes outdoor birds can spread the mites, while if you race pigeons they may come back with them. Remember, if not treated quickly this ailment can be fatal in rare cases. If you can afford it the best thing to do is take your whole flock to the vet for treatment. It is actually as common for a chicken to get mites as a pigeon despite the belief that pigeons are always infested with the pesky bugs. Due to the fact this must be treated quickly always be on the lookout for mites in your flock. Even if your flock doesn’t have mites, have these items on hand :

2 bottles of commercial mitespray
1 mite protecter that you can hang on chicken wire
1 bag of commercial chicken dust for dust baths
1 carrier so you can transport birds to the vet

As long as you keep the cages/coops clean you should not have problems.

Article contributed by: Eliza Kuklinski.

The views and advice expressed in this article are those of the author and not of Birds.com

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To ensure a healthy beak, provide your pet bird with a range of toys to chew, preferably something with different textures, such as a rope with pieces of wood, mineral blocks, pieces of leather and tough fabric attached to it. Most pet stores have these types of toys for sale, or you could make your own. Providing a cuttlefish is always a good idea. While some may advocate the use of sandpaper perch covers, others are against them as they may be too rough for the bird’s feet and cause problems. Rather see if you can find a cement perch, which is made specifically to ensure beak and nail health. Be sure to house your bird in a sturdy cage appropriate to its size, as biting through flimsy bars of a cage can cause damage to your bird’s beak. However, despite taking all these measures, at times a bird may develop problems with its beak overgrowing, and when this happens, it is imperative to go to an avian vet for an assessment and treatment, as there are some medical problems which can cause beak overgrowth.

Bearing in mind that the beak is used for climbing and playing, as well as for eating and obtaining nutrients for overall health, if a bird is developing beak problems, the quicker it is dealt with, the better. It is a good idea to check your bird’s beak on a daily basis, taking note of any cracks, discoloration, flaking or overgrowth. If your bird’s beak appears to be growing unevenly it could be an indication of an imbalance of nutrients in its diet, or even an underlying problem such as a liver disease. Even if the overgrowth has no medical cause, trimming a bird’s beak is best left to an expert to ensure a minimum of discomfort to your bird.

Should you be concerned about any aspect of your pet bird’s health, including beak overgrowth and abnormalities, nothing can substitute for the care and advice provided by a qualified avian veterinarian.

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Should your pet bird be injured it is vital to get it to a Veterinarian as soon as possible. In the interim it may be necessary to practice first-aid on your bird. The following are suggestions for dealing with various injuries, but remember even if first-aid is administered the bird must be taken to a Veterinarian.

In the case of bleeding, the source of the bleeding must be determined. Styptic powder, corn flour or baking soda can be used to stop the bleeding. A mixture of alum and cold water can also be applied. Place a gauze pad over the wound and apply firm pressure. If the bird has injured its leg or foot use antibiotic ointment and loosely bandage.

For broken wing bones, cut the toe out of a sock and place the injured bird inside with its head through the hole. Ensure the bird can breathe comfortably and there are holes for its feet.

When a bird is injured by a cat the greatest concern is that of infection. Clean the wounds with hydrogen peroxide. The injured bird will require an ampicillin shot.

If the injured bird is in shock (not moving, breathing is shallow and quick, eyes slightly closed) place it in a warm environment with low light.

If you find an injured wild bird it is better not to treat it as this is illegal in some countries. The best thing to do is to contact your nearest rehabilitation centre. If a bird has collided with a window it is likely just stunned. Cover it with a box with holes for a while and then remove, it will more than likely recover and fly off.

Do not handle a wild bird too much as this will add to the trauma of the situation. It is best not to handle an injured bird of prey as they are likely to hurt you, rather promptly contact the authorities trained to handle them correctly. The best way to capture a wild bird is to throw a towel or light blanket over it. Carefully pick it up making sure its wings are lying against its body (remember, this method cannot be used on an injured bird of prey). Other methods of capture, such as grabbing the beak and holding the injured bird under the arm, are not recommended unless you have been trained to do so.

It is advisable to keep the number of your Veterinarian and a local rehabilitation centre on hand in case a situation with an injured bird arises.

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Pet birds that were healthy when bought from a reputable breeder and are kept caged or indoors, are likely to remain healthy if provided with an appropriate diet and suitable housing that is cleaned regularly. It is a good idea though, for bird owners to be aware of various ailments that birds are susceptible to, as the earlier a problem is spotted, the more successfully it can be dealt with. As is the case with mammals and reptiles, birds can be adversely affected by parasites, both internal and external. While the adverse effects of external parasites may be visibly evident, internal parasites can do quite a bit of harm before it becomes apparent that the bird is unwell.

Nematodes, also referred to as roundworms, are most commonly found in the intestinal tract. The bird becomes infected by ingesting the eggs, which may be found in contaminated food or water, as well as on toys or soil. The eggs hatch in the bird, and the larvae develop into adults which go on to produce more eggs, which in turn are passed in the feces, thereby contaminating the environment. The bird, or its companions, may then ingest the eggs, starting the cycle all over again. Infested birds typically appear to be in ill health, have stunted growth and suffer from diarrhea. Worms may be seen in the feces, but an examination of fecal matter under a microscope is the best option for an accurate diagnosis. There are a number of medications used to treat nematodes, and an avian veterinarian must be consulted in this regard.

Caged pet birds are unlikely to become infected with trematodes (flukes) and cestodes (tapeworms) as these parasites have an indirect life cycle which requires a third party such as an earthworm or a snail to act as intermediate host. The bird becomes infested when it eats the intermediate host which has previously eaten the parasite egg.

The diverse group of protozoan parasites includes coccidian and Giardia which cause diarrhea and blood-tinged feces. To make an accurate diagnosis the avian veterinarian will need to examine a fresh fecal sample. Another protozoan parasite is Cryptosporidia, which attacks the cells of the intestinal and respiratory tracts. Symptoms include severe diarrhea, coughing and nasal discharge. As yet, an effective treatment for Cryptosporidia is not available.

Measures that should be taken to prevent any illness in your pet bird include cleaning cages daily, and washing all items that have fecal matter on them, including food and water dishes, toys and perches. In the wild, a bird can move away from its fecal matter, but when a bird is in a cage it is the owner’s responsibility to move its fecal matter away from the bird. Become familiar with your bird’s behavior and eating habits, as any change could indicate a health problem. Remember, prevention really is better than cure.

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It’s not every day that one hears about birds getting burn injuries and we may be at a loss to imagine how it might happen. The fact is that when things such as this happen, they usually happen pretty fast and immediate action is necessary to prevent serious injuries or death. With that in mind, it is definitely worthwhile learning a bit about the treatment of burns on birds.

The first thing to think about is what caused the burn in the first place since the treatment may differ somewhat as a result. If the burn is more of a scald from a hot liquid, a fire or even a chemical burn, it will usually help to flush the burnt area with cool (but not cold) running water for between ten to fifteen minutes. This will help to stop the burning, reduce the inflammation and will also help to lower the bird’s skin temperature. The burn may then be covered with cool, sterile dressings or gauze squares that have been moistened with sterile saline while the unfortunate creature is rushed to the vet. A visit to the vet is especially urgent if the pet bird has suffered third-degree burns.

An electrical burn requires a different approach and is harder to see. Usually a curious bird will bite through a wire, resulting in the burn. Unfortunately while that sort of burn may not show on the beak or skin initially, it can travel deep down into the tissues of the bird’s body. If the bird is thrown back or falls from the jolt he receives when he makes contact with the wires, he may also suffer from broken bones or other injuries. If you see this happen to your bird, the first thing you need to do is make sure that he is safe to touch. If he is still in contact with the live wire, you will have to either remove him from it with something non-conductive (cardboard, wood, plastic) or you may choose to switch off the electricity at the source. The next thing you’ll need to do is check if the bird is breathing and if there is a heartbeat. You may even need to perform CPR on your bird if his body isn’t functioning on its own. It may help to start rushing him to the vet as you start the treatment. If he revives, you would do well to place him in a warm, dark and secure carrier to minimize the stress of transportation. The warmth can be provided by a hot water bottle or some other creative item you may have on hand at the time. Treatment by the vet at this point would be essential and it would probably be a good idea to phone the vet in advance and prepare them for the emergency at hand.

With that in mind, there are a few other things you should never attempt when treating a burn. For starters, once you have done the basic first aid, make sure that you leave the rest of the treatment up to the vet. Don’t pull out feathers or remove debris from the burnt skin, don’t put any greasy products on the burn such as butter or ointment, don’t apply ice to the burn and don’t pop any blisters. It would also be a good idea to stay clear of blankets or towels as they may stick to the burn and, of course, do not try to give an unconscious bird any kind of oral medication. Your poor companion may be in need of some extended treatment and only the vet is qualified to be able to determine exactly what sort of treatment he will require. So make sure that you get your bird to the vet as quickly as possible to ensure that he gets the best medical treatment possible.

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Most bird lovers do not know much about avian tumors so the presence of a lump or bump beneath your bird’s skin might get you into a panic. However, just because there is an abnormality, the problem is not necessary a tumor. There are a range of things which can cause bumps beneath your bird’s skin.

The first thing you will need to do is to determine what the bump is. This, of course, is best done by a veterinarian who can determine what it is. But there are a number of causes for those unsightly lumps and there is no reason to automatically conclude that your bird has a tumor. The bird could have an abscess, a fat deposit or a cyst. If the bird is female, a bulge in the abdominal region could indicate the presence of an egg. A swelling could also indicate than a particular organ is diseased and needs treatment. The most important thing to note is that while lumps and bumps caused by abscesses or cysts may be firm, they are usually not very hard since they are filled with fluid. An avian tumor, however, is a solid mass of tissue. The tumor can occur anywhere on the body and it can grow rapidly and spread. It may grow inside the body or under the skin. While the other medical conditions mentioned above should be treated, very prompt treatment/removal of a tumor is of the utmost urgency to avoid your beloved friend from suffering an untimely and uncomfortable end.

Of course, just as with humans, tumors may be benign (non-cancerous) or malignant (cancerous). However, since most pet birds are so small, even benign tumors can be life-threatening so it is imperative that they are treated as quickly as possible. Benign tumors tend not to spread and they grow very slowly. They can normally be removed fairly easily and will usually, but not always, never come back. Unfortunately the same is not true of malignant tumors, which often invade and damage nearby tissues and organs. They’ll spread to different parts of the bird’s body more easily, as the cancer cells break off and travel to other tissues in the body via the bloodstream. The prognosis for this sort of tumor is bad, since even if you remove the main growth, small portions of the tumor may have already migrated elsewhere so the tumor will still be present in the bird. Malignant tumors also tend to grow faster than benign tumors.

Unfortunately, the occurrence of tumors are not all that uncommon in our avian friends and there are actually a surprising number of tumor types that are commonly found in birds. Therefore if you find a suspicious lump on your bird and you are unsure of what it is, make sure that you get your feathered friend to a vet as soon as possible – especially if the lump is hard and is growing fast. Prompt action could ensure your friend’s survival!

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Sufficient exposure to natural sunlight and sufficient sleep in a dark environment, are both vital to the physical and emotional health of your pet bird. If other more obvious causes have been ruled out by an avian veterinarian, an ill-tempered or sickly bird may very well be suffering from a lack of sunlight and/or a lack of sleep.

As with humans, sunlight allows for the activation of Vitamin D in your bird, which among other things facilitates proper calcium absorption. Calcium is essential for a host of functions other than the most widely touted – that of building bone strength. It is not uncommon for avian veterinarians to be presented with birds suffering from hypocalcaemia – a type of electrolyte disturbance measured by the presence of low serum calcium levels in the blood. This is often as a direct result of a Vitamin D deficiency brought about by insufficient sunlight. Hypocalcaemia can cause a bird to have seizures, muscle spasms and weakness. African Grey parrots are particularly susceptible to hypocalcaemia.

Ideally a pet bird should be allowed between four and six hours of sunlight each day, or as close to that as possible. Bird-owners who are out at work all day, should ensure that their bird is in a spot that receives some sunlight at some time during the day. Unfortunately, as most window glass has been treated to prevent ultraviolet rays from passing through, birds that are in a sunny spot indoors do not get the benefit of the sun’s ultraviolet rays, nevertheless this filtered sunlight is better than none at all.

Other benefits of a daily dose of sunshine are the promotion of a healthy appetite, improved feather quality and color, while stimulating a natural molting cycle and preventing hormone imbalances. Additionally, natural sunlight will do wonders for your bird’s disposition, making it more cheerful and more sociable. Prolonged periods with no natural light can make a bird sluggish, grumpy and depressed, and as we have seen, even physically ill.

So, with a sufficient amount of quality sleep (between ten and twelve hours per night), regular natural sunlight and the correct diet, your bird is likely to be a very happy member of your household.

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Understanding the principles of Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR), and being able to put these effectively into practice, could result in saving a life. CPR is used extensively for humans, and has a good success rate on domestic animals such as cats and dogs, but few bird owners are aware that CPR can be performed on their pet birds with very positive results.

Under the correct circumstances, such as when a bird has suffered acute trauma, CPR can save a bird’s life. A bird that has deteriorated due to a long illnessis not likely to benefit from CPR. Whether dealing with a human, dog, cat or bird, the basic principles and techniques of CPR are the same and require quick evaluation of breathing, airway and pulse before CPR can commence.

To determine whether an unconscious bird is breathing, check whether its breast and abdomen is rising and falling. Check the oral cavity to establish that it is clear, and if not, clear the cavity with a finger or a cotton-tipped bud. Check for a heartbeat by listening on either side of the keel bone – a stethoscope will make this task easier.

If the bird has stopped breathing, but you can still hear its heartbeat, begin rescue breathing. Supporting the bird’s head in your one hand, and its body in the other, tilt it slightly away from you. Begin respirations by sealing your lips around the beak and nares (nostrils) for smaller birds. Rescue breathing on larger birds may require that you block the nares with your finger while sealing your lips around the beak. After taking a breath, blow five breaths in quick succession into the bird’s beak. The strength of each puff of breath will be determined by the size of the bird. With each breath, check whether the area where the sternum meets the abdomen rises. If it does not, then you are not getting enough air into the bird’s respiratory tract. Before blowing again, recheck the airway for obstructions. If the bird’s breast rises with each puff, pause for a while to see if it will breathe on its own. If not, repeat the rescue breathing, while at the same time checking whether the bird’s heart is still beating.

If the bird’s heart stops beating while you are performing the rescue breathing, you’ll need to begin CPR. While continuing with the rescue breathing, start adding gentle chest compressions. To meet the needs of the bird’s naturally rapid heart rate, provide between forty and sixty compressions per minute, depending on the size of the bird. Again depending on the size of the bird, place between one and three fingers on the keel bone and apply finger pressure. Depressing the keel or sternum, compresses the heart, which in turn circulates the blood. While being careful not to apply too much pressure, the pressure must be sufficient to visibly see the sternum depress downward, which is best observed where the keel and abdomen meet.

Proceed by giving five puffs of breath, followed by ten compressions, and then check the bird for breathing and heartbeat. If necessary, continue with two breaths, followed by ten compressions, and again two breaths followed by ten compressions. After one minute, reevaluate the bird, and continue at your discretion until you are able to get the bird to an avian veterinarian. If the bird starts breathing, place it in a warm, quiet place until you get it to the vet.

If you feel that you are up to the task of performing CPR on your pet bird, you should check with your avian veterinarian with regard to learning these potentially life-saving techniques. This is just a guide and a veterinarian should always be consulted in matters of your bird’s health.

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Avian Haven, situated in Freedom, Maine, is a wild bird rehabilitation center has cared for more than twenty thousand birds during the twenty years since it was founded by Diane Winn and Marc Payne. These compassionate bird-lovers care for injured or orphaned birds of all species, which are generally brought to them by members of the public, veterinarians, Maine wildlife biologists, game wardens and animal control officers, as well as other rehabilitation centers.

This non-profit organization, which is funded by private donations and is supported by dedicated volunteers, provides medical treatment with the goal of releasing rehabilitated birds into the wild. The indoor infirmary includes a kitchen fully equipped to prepare food required by all species of birds, as well as incubators, hospital and recovery cages, veterinary equipment, two flight cages and a full range of naturopathic, allopathic and homeopathic medicines.

With humans increasingly encroaching on their habitats, it is quite common for wild birds to get injured. Birds collide with windows, get hit by cars, get trapped in buildings, get tangled up in fencing or are caught by cats. An injured bird needs fast and expert attention. The top priority is to keep the bird warm and it is best placed in a box with air-holes, together with a piece of cloth or an old towel, in a quiet place until it can be seen to by a veterinarian or taken to a rehabilitation center, such Avian Haven. The same can be said for fledglings that have fallen from their nests, once it has been established that there are no parents nearby.

Once a patient at Avian Haven is well on the road to recovery, the final pre-release step in the rehabilitation process is flight-conditioning. Twelve outdoor flight cages are designed to accommodate patients of all sizes, from Hummingbirds through to Bald Eagles, taking into account their specific needs. For example the Large Raptor Compound features a group of large cages, each with access to a roomy flyway to facilitate unlimited linear flight. The Small Raptor Compound has been designed with three territories that are connected by a flight corridor and an elevated tunnel. Other enclosures include the Casa Corvus and the Eagle Recovery Habitat.

It is a distressing reality that humans often impact negatively on bird-life, and it is certainly a comforting thought for all bird-lovers and birding enthusiasts that rehabilitation centers, such as Avian Haven, are actively involved in caring for the needs of birds in distress.

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For many bird owners, hand rearing a baby bird is a rewarding and very time consuming undertaking. It takes patience, dedication and discipline, but owners will reap the rewards of hand rearing as the baby birds form a close bond and loving relationship with their owners. In breeding programs, birds are often taken from their parents to encourage increased production, or in some instances the chicks are orphaned by their parents and need human assistance to ensure their survival.

Many breeders hand rear chicks from the moment they hatch, but for first time bird owners, and in general, it is suggested that you allow the parents to take care of the young chick for approximately two to three weeks and then take over. At about three weeks their eyes would just be opening and a few feathers should start to show. From here, owners and their baby birds can begin to build up their special relationship, through nurturing and care.

There are four vital rules for hand rearing baby birds that should be remembered; namely, heat, diet, feeding, technique, and hygiene. When chicks hatch, they need a constant temperature of between 33 to 37 degrees Celsius to compensate for their naked little bodies. As their feathers start to grow, less heat is needed and they will be able to keep warm under their plumage. Hot water bottles are often used, as overheating can be fatal to a chick. Always ensure that the wooden box or tank where you are keeping the chick is clean and safe for the bird. It is advised to enquire as to the correct formula for the specific bird species, to ensure that the bird receives a balanced and healthy diet. Never force a chick to eat. Only feed as much as the chick is willing to eat and always discard any leftover food. Test the heat of the food against your lip, if it does not burn, the temperature is right. The best utensils for feeding are generally either a spoon with its sides turned up, or a syringe. Between feeding, utensils should be disinfected in boiling water. Any spilt food should be cleaned off the chick with a wet cloth to ensure hygiene. Take time to examine the baby bird closely for any signs of distress, failure to gain weight, loss of weight, abnormal feathering, changes in skin color, vomiting or slow empting crop, to be able to get the chick the necessary veterinary care as soon as possible.

A small bowl of seeds and soft foods, such as peas, small pieces of fruit or vegetables, can be left in the cage close to approximately ten weeks of age. It will assist the baby to wean off its daily feeding, and can be replaced by daily love, training and playing. The bond between the baby bird and owner is irreplaceable, as is watching a tiny, defenseless bird grow into a colorful masterpiece of nature.

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