This fascinating bird has coined its name from the mustache-like markings that is found on its face and once the birds have reached maturity, the males’ beaks are orange in color, while the females are recognized by their black beaks. Growing to approximately thirty three centimeters and weighing on average a hundred and thirty grams, the Mustached Parakeet is a small parrot. They have predominantly green plumage, lighter coloring on their heads with a blue tinge and indentifying salmon to pink colored plumage on their chests.

Being extremely intelligent means that the Mustached Parakeet can get bored very easily, and therefore needs an assortment of chew toys and toys that can stimulate their thought process. Spacious cages are also recommended. When compared to the Ringneck Parakeet, the Mustached Parakeet is much calmer and can speak clearer than its counterpart. They are playful and social birds, but can test their boundaries if they have not been disciplined correctly. In the wild, these birds travel in flocks and can get very lonely if they are without a companion and do not get sufficient attention from their owners. In their natural habitat, these birds will feed on a variety of foods which include seeds, fruit and berries, and it is therefore recommended that owners seek advice from their veterinarian to ensure that the correct diet is followed.

Mustached Parakeets are very popular pets but many owners do not research their choice of pet or species and can be surprised by their natural call, which is quite vocal. Before any pet owner decides to purchase a parrot or any captive bird is it essential that they know what their care involves and how to ensure the health and welfare of these magnificent birds.

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There are a surprising number of bird beak problems which occur fairly commonly across the globe. One of the most common is probably that of trauma. Pet birds can easily break or injure their beaks by engaging in activities such as fighting with other birds, chewing on electric cords, flying into windows or fans or trapping their beak between cage bars. They can even hurt them by falling accidentally onto a hard floor. As a result, the beak can be punctured, fractured or partially or completely torn off the face. If anything like this happens to your bird, it would be best to rush it to the vet immediately.

Another thing to look out for is infectious disease. There are a number of viral, parasitic, bacterial and fungal pathogens that can affect the bird’s beak directly or indirectly. Examples of this are psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), avian pox and scaly leg and face mites. None of them are pretty, but many of them are easily treatable with antibiotics and antifungal treatments.

Then there are those bird beak problems that occur at a much slower rate and may not be noticed until they are already quite well-developed. Some baby birds develop beak abnormalities early on, where their upper or lower beaks grow longer than they should. This is not great for the bird but can be fixed with dental appliances which are similar in application to human braces. Nutritional deficiencies can also cause beak problems, with scaly beaks or overgrown beaks being caused by inappropriate nutrition. Sometimes a bird’s beak can become soft or rubbery. It may take a while to notice these things, but once it has been spotted the bird should be put on a more appropriate diet so that it can recover.

One of the more serious bird beak problems to watch out for is that of cancer. Birds can develop squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma on their beaks which can manifest as an erosion or a discolored mass on the beak. If it is caught early enough it can usually be surgically removed. If you notice anything abnormal about your bird’s beak, the best thing to do is usually to contact the vet as soon as possible. Don’t waste time as you may miss a critical window period that could make all the difference.

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Many bird owners see programs on television where birds are performing tricks, saying cute lines and interacting with their owners on a personal level. Most of these owners wish to have the same relationship with their own birds, but do not realize how easy it is to teach a bird a few tricks. With a little patience and a few minutes of dedication a day, birds can be taught a number of tricks and they are often more perceptive than owners realize. But first there must be trust between the pet bird and its owner.

Owners must build up a relationship with their birds before attempting to teach their pets to do tricks. They must be able to handle their pet birds, touch their bodies and have their birds sit on their shoulders and hands. Being afraid of being bitten will be a hindrance in the learning process, so trust must be established beforehand. Owners should then establish what their bird’s favorite food is, to be able to use food treats as a reward. These treats should then only be used while training, so that the bird can associate the treat with learning and that it will be an incentive for him/her to perform a trick.

One of the first tricks, which is the simplest, that most owners teach their birds is the wave. At first, a verbal and visual cue is used, and is taught from the simple action of the bird getting onto their owners hand. Holding out the right hand, as if for the bird to climb on, the owner will tell the bird to wave and wiggle their fingers as the bird lifts its foot to climb on. Before the bird is able to place their foot on their owners’ hand, the owner will take the hand away and praise the pet immediately. This will teach the bird that whenever he lifts his foot for the verbal command, he will receive a treat. Repeating the trick a few times each day will teach the bird to associate the word “wave” with the action.

After getting the wave down to a fine art, owners can move on to other prop-less tricks such as the “turn around” and to shake hands. With each new trick learnt, the difficulty and skill can be increased. Teaching a bird small tricks can be as rewarding for the bird as it is for the owner and gives owners and the pet quality time together. With trust, activities and hours of fun, the relationship between owners and beloved pets can only grow stronger.

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According to veterinary estimates, as many as 50% or more of pet birds taken to the vet engage in some form of over-preening or other feather damaging behavior. The problem is quite commonplace, but it is distressing for bird owners and difficult to get rid of. Moreover, any bird can start to exhibit this problem. So what do we do about it?

Part of understanding how to deal with this problem, is understanding what causes the problem. There are three main factors: physical/medical problems, environmental factors and behavioral/psychological problems. Feather picking can also degenerate into skin mutilation over time – a very serious condition. So it is worth trying to get to the bottom of the problem as soon as it manifests itself.

Physical problems include viral infections, bacterial and fungal infections, external parasites, allergies, poor wing-feather trimming, nutritional deficiencies, hormonal imbalances and trauma. All of these can be diagnosed by a qualified avian vet and treated accordingly. Once the immediate problem is dealt with, the real cause behind the behavior can be addressed and the chances of the bird continuing this behavior become slim.

Environmental problems worth considering are a cage that is too small for the bird, using the wrong types of perches, exposure to airborne toxins, low humidity, the wrong kind of lighting, All of these things are distressing to a bird and may cause it to pluck its feathers.

According to research, certain species of parrots, cockatoos, cockatiels, parakeets and lovebirds are particularly predisposed to this sort of destructive behavior. These particular species all live in large flocks in the wild, and separation from the flock usually results in anxiety. Our tame birds may not even know what a large flock of birds is, but they usually view their human associates as an extension of their social environment. If they feel isolated from their human ‘flock’ they may become anxious and this could lead to behavioral problems such as feather picking. This would be a definite psychological factor that is easy to fix. A bird lacking simulation or one that is under too much stress from its environment is also something to consider. We also want to consider the activity of the human counter-parts as things such as an increase in fighting may stress the bird out.

Clearly there are a number of things to consider when trying to determine why your bird is feather picking. But getting to the root of the problem is definitely worthwhile since your bird’s health and longevity are at stake.

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Firstly, one needs to understand what gout is. Gout is a buildup of uric acid in the blood and forms due to the kidneys not being able to remove the uric acid from the body because the levels are too high. Uric acid crystals begin to form in the affected areas, causing the gout sufferer extreme pain and discomfort. These crystals form in the ligaments and joints when articular gout is experienced and around organs such as the liver and kidneys when it is visceral gout. Unfortunately, birds are susceptible to gout.

Gout can affect any pet bird, but is more commonly found in parrots, budgies and cockatiels. Even though gout can be treated through the use of medication, the damage done before diagnoses cannot be repaired. It is therefore vital that bird owners know what signs to look out for so as to catch the onset of gout in its early stages. Swollen and stiff joints might be the first indication, and birds will often shift their weight around or not be able to perch, remaining on the floor of their cages. In some cases their wings could be affected, leaving them unable to fly. If the organs are being affected, an increase in urine, weight loss and a change in demeanor could be indications of gout.

Even though a veterinarian will prescribe medication, owners can assist by keeping their birds on a strict diet. Birds suffering from gout are usually given a low protein diet, that is often a mixture of avian pellets, very little seeds or sometimes none, and in some cases oatmeal is added. Mixing water with the food, feeding them a moist mixture is also recommended, as an increased intake of fluids assists in flushing waste products through their kidneys.

Medication for birds with gout is still undetermined when it comes to safe levels of dosage. Veterinarians are known to treat gout with medications such as allopurinol, probenecid and colchicines. Crystals can be removed surgically in some cases, but again, the damage gout causes is irreversible. It is better for bird owners to prevent gout in their birds, and feeding their birds the correct diet is a recommended start. If a bird is diagnosed with gout, listening and taking the advice given by the veterinarian can help to alleviate a lot of pain and restore comfort in a bird’s life.

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Most animal lovers firmly believe that their pets respond to their warm loving touch, but quite a few owners are blissfully unaware of just how much our pets are aware of. This is also the case with pet birds, especially parrots, which respond almost instantly to the mood or energy levels of the human who is handling them.

As it turns out, parrots are generally more comfortable with people who feel comfortable around them. If you are tense, aggressive or panicky, the bird is likely to pick up on that and become tense itself. How do they pick up on our moods? Our energy levels fluctuate according to our moods and a change in our energy levels can have a massive impact on any bird we might be handling at the time. If the parrot is being handled by a person who is frustrated, angry, depressed or aggressive, they can become fearful of that particular person and react in an often aggressive manner. They are not attacking the handler because they have a distinct dislike for that person – only a distinct dislike for the way that person makes them feel. So before you get ready to discipline a bird or to label it as a biter or a bad-mannered creature, you might want to consider what sort of ‘vibe’ you’re giving off and if it might be making the bird uncomfortable. Often becoming almost submissive with aggressive birds that are unfamiliar with you can have an almost immediate effect on their behaviour. You need to give them time to get used to you and understand you before you worry about them trying to express dominant behaviour. When meeting a new bird for the first time, it is often best to take a few deep breaths and calm yourself before you attempt to handle it.

Calming yourself is also something worth considering in a disaster situation. If, for example, you live in an area that regularly suffers from earthquakes, you will want to ensure that you are calm before going to check on your birds and make sure that you are ok. Entering the room in a panicked state will only make the birds more panicky in a situation that has already been very stressful for them. It is far better to take a few moments to calm yourself down, enter the room and quietly hum or talk to yourself while engaging in quiet activities in the vicinity of the cages. This will usually help the birds to regain their composure quicker and they will soon be feeling much better and may even end up chattering quite happily in their cages. Clearly how you feel will have a big effect on how your birds feel, so next time you get ready to spend time with your feathered friends, take a moment to consider your mood to ensure that your bird enjoys you as much as you enjoy it.

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Pet birds that were healthy when bought from a reputable breeder and are kept caged or indoors, are likely to remain healthy if provided with an appropriate diet and suitable housing that is cleaned regularly. It is a good idea though, for bird owners to be aware of various ailments that birds are susceptible to, as the earlier a problem is spotted, the more successfully it can be dealt with. As is the case with mammals and reptiles, birds can be adversely affected by parasites, both internal and external. While the adverse effects of external parasites may be visibly evident, internal parasites can do quite a bit of harm before it becomes apparent that the bird is unwell.

Nematodes, also referred to as roundworms, are most commonly found in the intestinal tract. The bird becomes infected by ingesting the eggs, which may be found in contaminated food or water, as well as on toys or soil. The eggs hatch in the bird, and the larvae develop into adults which go on to produce more eggs, which in turn are passed in the feces, thereby contaminating the environment. The bird, or its companions, may then ingest the eggs, starting the cycle all over again. Infested birds typically appear to be in ill health, have stunted growth and suffer from diarrhea. Worms may be seen in the feces, but an examination of fecal matter under a microscope is the best option for an accurate diagnosis. There are a number of medications used to treat nematodes, and an avian veterinarian must be consulted in this regard.

Caged pet birds are unlikely to become infected with trematodes (flukes) and cestodes (tapeworms) as these parasites have an indirect life cycle which requires a third party such as an earthworm or a snail to act as intermediate host. The bird becomes infested when it eats the intermediate host which has previously eaten the parasite egg.

The diverse group of protozoan parasites includes coccidian and Giardia which cause diarrhea and blood-tinged feces. To make an accurate diagnosis the avian veterinarian will need to examine a fresh fecal sample. Another protozoan parasite is Cryptosporidia, which attacks the cells of the intestinal and respiratory tracts. Symptoms include severe diarrhea, coughing and nasal discharge. As yet, an effective treatment for Cryptosporidia is not available.

Measures that should be taken to prevent any illness in your pet bird include cleaning cages daily, and washing all items that have fecal matter on them, including food and water dishes, toys and perches. In the wild, a bird can move away from its fecal matter, but when a bird is in a cage it is the owner’s responsibility to move its fecal matter away from the bird. Become familiar with your bird’s behavior and eating habits, as any change could indicate a health problem. Remember, prevention really is better than cure.

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It’s not every day that one hears about birds getting burn injuries and we may be at a loss to imagine how it might happen. The fact is that when things such as this happen, they usually happen pretty fast and immediate action is necessary to prevent serious injuries or death. With that in mind, it is definitely worthwhile learning a bit about the treatment of burns on birds.

The first thing to think about is what caused the burn in the first place since the treatment may differ somewhat as a result. If the burn is more of a scald from a hot liquid, a fire or even a chemical burn, it will usually help to flush the burnt area with cool (but not cold) running water for between ten to fifteen minutes. This will help to stop the burning, reduce the inflammation and will also help to lower the bird’s skin temperature. The burn may then be covered with cool, sterile dressings or gauze squares that have been moistened with sterile saline while the unfortunate creature is rushed to the vet. A visit to the vet is especially urgent if the pet bird has suffered third-degree burns.

An electrical burn requires a different approach and is harder to see. Usually a curious bird will bite through a wire, resulting in the burn. Unfortunately while that sort of burn may not show on the beak or skin initially, it can travel deep down into the tissues of the bird’s body. If the bird is thrown back or falls from the jolt he receives when he makes contact with the wires, he may also suffer from broken bones or other injuries. If you see this happen to your bird, the first thing you need to do is make sure that he is safe to touch. If he is still in contact with the live wire, you will have to either remove him from it with something non-conductive (cardboard, wood, plastic) or you may choose to switch off the electricity at the source. The next thing you’ll need to do is check if the bird is breathing and if there is a heartbeat. You may even need to perform CPR on your bird if his body isn’t functioning on its own. It may help to start rushing him to the vet as you start the treatment. If he revives, you would do well to place him in a warm, dark and secure carrier to minimize the stress of transportation. The warmth can be provided by a hot water bottle or some other creative item you may have on hand at the time. Treatment by the vet at this point would be essential and it would probably be a good idea to phone the vet in advance and prepare them for the emergency at hand.

With that in mind, there are a few other things you should never attempt when treating a burn. For starters, once you have done the basic first aid, make sure that you leave the rest of the treatment up to the vet. Don’t pull out feathers or remove debris from the burnt skin, don’t put any greasy products on the burn such as butter or ointment, don’t apply ice to the burn and don’t pop any blisters. It would also be a good idea to stay clear of blankets or towels as they may stick to the burn and, of course, do not try to give an unconscious bird any kind of oral medication. Your poor companion may be in need of some extended treatment and only the vet is qualified to be able to determine exactly what sort of treatment he will require. So make sure that you get your bird to the vet as quickly as possible to ensure that he gets the best medical treatment possible.

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Most bird lovers do not know much about avian tumors so the presence of a lump or bump beneath your bird’s skin might get you into a panic. However, just because there is an abnormality, the problem is not necessary a tumor. There are a range of things which can cause bumps beneath your bird’s skin.

The first thing you will need to do is to determine what the bump is. This, of course, is best done by a veterinarian who can determine what it is. But there are a number of causes for those unsightly lumps and there is no reason to automatically conclude that your bird has a tumor. The bird could have an abscess, a fat deposit or a cyst. If the bird is female, a bulge in the abdominal region could indicate the presence of an egg. A swelling could also indicate than a particular organ is diseased and needs treatment. The most important thing to note is that while lumps and bumps caused by abscesses or cysts may be firm, they are usually not very hard since they are filled with fluid. An avian tumor, however, is a solid mass of tissue. The tumor can occur anywhere on the body and it can grow rapidly and spread. It may grow inside the body or under the skin. While the other medical conditions mentioned above should be treated, very prompt treatment/removal of a tumor is of the utmost urgency to avoid your beloved friend from suffering an untimely and uncomfortable end.

Of course, just as with humans, tumors may be benign (non-cancerous) or malignant (cancerous). However, since most pet birds are so small, even benign tumors can be life-threatening so it is imperative that they are treated as quickly as possible. Benign tumors tend not to spread and they grow very slowly. They can normally be removed fairly easily and will usually, but not always, never come back. Unfortunately the same is not true of malignant tumors, which often invade and damage nearby tissues and organs. They’ll spread to different parts of the bird’s body more easily, as the cancer cells break off and travel to other tissues in the body via the bloodstream. The prognosis for this sort of tumor is bad, since even if you remove the main growth, small portions of the tumor may have already migrated elsewhere so the tumor will still be present in the bird. Malignant tumors also tend to grow faster than benign tumors.

Unfortunately, the occurrence of tumors are not all that uncommon in our avian friends and there are actually a surprising number of tumor types that are commonly found in birds. Therefore if you find a suspicious lump on your bird and you are unsure of what it is, make sure that you get your feathered friend to a vet as soon as possible – especially if the lump is hard and is growing fast. Prompt action could ensure your friend’s survival!

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It’s never easy trying to face the many difficulties that occur when a natural disaster strikes, but a bit of careful planning can really help to ease a lot of the problems that may arise. This is especially the case when you have pet birds that need to be evacuated, since you will have to care for their needs despite the looming crisis.

Planning ahead for a crisis is especially important if you live in an area that is prone to things like earthquakes and hurricanes, but it is a good idea to be prepared even if that isn’t the case. Even if it is just a fire caused by an electrical fault – you want to be able to get your feathered friends out quickly and easily. Situations such as that always lead to panic, and that panic could be worsened if you find yourself hurriedly searching for pet carriers and towels or running out of food and water. When it comes to birds, there are two main things you will need to keep an eye on – food and water. Generally speaking you want to ensure that there is always enough of the two around to last your bird up to seven days. Bottled water is especially important, because often earthquakes and other natural disasters will affect the quality of drinking water immediately available after the event has occurred. Watching your birds suffer from dehydration is never a pleasant thing and should be avoided at all costs. And if the disaster means a loss of electricity for a time, remember to use any outdoor camping stoves outside to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning in yourself and your bird. Both the food and water should be pre-packed in a convenient place so that you don’t have to rush around looking for them when disaster strikes. It doesn’t hurt to add an emergency kit to the pack in case your bird injures himself during the sudden move.

Another really good idea is to ensure that you have enough bird carriers for all your birds. While one might be enough for casual trips to the vet, it certainly isn’t going to help when you suddenly have to whisk all of your birds away at the same time in a rescue situation. You’ll need an appropriate amount of carriers to enable you to carry all your birds away from harm without letting them harm each other. It also helps if you have a strategy regarding where you will go in difficult situations. Most public shelters don’t allow pets, so you can’t just expect to ‘wing it’. You want to look at finding a location that will allow you to keep your pets with you so that you can ensure that their needs are cared for. If you are fortunate enough to be asked to evacuate an area before a disaster strikes, you should take early warning and get out with your animals before the situation gets tense and panicky and your chosen accommodation gets booked up. If your bird isn’t a fan of carriers, it may help to keep a towel near the carrier so you can quickly and easily transfer the bird to his temporary lodgings. Being prepared is the key to getting every member of your family – including your pet birds – out of harm’s way quickly and safely.

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