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Pet Bird Beak Health and Trimming

Editor — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 12:22:07 +0000

The practice of beak trimming is somewhat controversial, and in making up your mind as to whether or not to trim your bird’s beak, it may be helpful to look at why a bird’s beak may need to be trimmed. The beak of a bird is made up of the jaw bone, which is covered by a sheath of keratin known as rhamphotheca. Keratin is the substance that our fingernails are made up of, and just as our fingernails continue to grow, a bird’s beak continues to grow throughout its lifetime. In the wild, this growth is worn down through the bird foraging for food, eating a hard diet, using its beak to climb, grooming activities and rubbing its beak on abrasive surfaces.

To ensure a healthy beak, provide your pet bird with a range of toys to chew, preferably something with different textures, such as a rope with pieces of wood, mineral blocks, pieces of leather and tough fabric attached to it. Most pet stores have these types of toys for sale, or you could make your own. Providing a cuttlefish is always a good idea. While some may advocate the use of sandpaper perch covers, others are against them as they may be too rough for the bird’s feet and cause problems. Rather see if you can find a cement perch, which is made specifically to ensure beak and nail health. Be sure to house your bird in a sturdy cage appropriate to its size, as biting through flimsy bars of a cage can cause damage to your bird’s beak. However, despite taking all these measures, at times a bird may develop problems with its beak overgrowing, and when this happens, it is imperative to go to an avian vet for an assessment and treatment, as there are some medical problems which can cause beak overgrowth.

Bearing in mind that the beak is used for climbing and playing, as well as for eating and obtaining nutrients for overall health, if a bird is developing beak problems, the quicker it is dealt with, the better. It is a good idea to check your bird’s beak on a daily basis, taking note of any cracks, discoloration, flaking or overgrowth. If your bird’s beak appears to be growing unevenly it could be an indication of an imbalance of nutrients in its diet, or even an underlying problem such as a liver disease. Even if the overgrowth has no medical cause, trimming a bird’s beak is best left to an expert to ensure a minimum of discomfort to your bird.

Should you be concerned about any aspect of your pet bird’s health, including beak overgrowth and abnormalities, nothing can substitute for the care and advice provided by a qualified avian veterinarian.

Showing and Displaying

Editor — Mon, 09 Feb 2009 11:50:35 +0000

Preparation for showing and displaying of birds typically begins about four months before the date of the show. At this time you should decide which birds you are going to be showing and then place each bird in its own cage to prevent damage to feathers and so on. The birds chosen for showing and displaying should have good plumage, posture and have all their toes. Examine the birds daily to see if they are still in tip-top condition. Maintain show birds on a nutritious diet that will not allow them to become overweight.

Once you have chosen the birds for showing and displaying, begin a routine of bathing or spraying the birds with water daily. Closer to the date of the show clip claws and file beaks. Keep the cages thoroughly clean so that the bird does not soil its feathers. Begin spraying them with a soft mist of water as their showing condition improves. Two days prior to the show stop this spraying and allow natural oils to coat the birds’ feathers giving them a lovely sheen.

Prepare your birds for the show by familiarizing them with their show cages. This can be done by enticing them into the cage by means of treats. By using this method it will not be necessary to handle your show bird and there will be no risk of damage to feathers or injuries. Also get the bird accustomed to the cage being moved around and lots of noise as this is what they will encounter at the show.

On the day of the show make sure that your show cage is clean and sprinkle a layer of plain seed on the bottom of the cage. Also rather use a water bottle attached to the outside of the cage, You do not want food and water dishes obscuring the view of the judges whilst your bird is on display.

When you arrive you will have to register your birds. The stewards will ensure that you have the correct labels for the group you are entering into. Such labels should be properly displayed. The judges will be looking for shape, size, color and condition of the bird. Plumage is to be fully developed. Birds must look lively and active but not nervous. Once the judges have seen all the birds, prizes are awarded.

Showing and displaying birds can be a rewarding and satisfying experience. Even if you do not win, you will have enjoyed the association of like-minded people, swopping stories and learning from one anothers experiences.

A Closer Look at Beak Problems

Editor — Wed, 28 Jan 2009 09:52:35 +0000

Those of us fortunate enough to own one or more feathered friends will understand that it is always a good idea to have at least a basic knowledge of common bird ailments. Forewarned is forearmed, or so they say, and this is especially true when it comes to your bird’s beak. Birds use their beaks for numerous things, so anything could go wrong with it at virtually any time.

There are a surprising number of bird beak problems which occur fairly commonly across the globe. One of the most common is probably that of trauma. Pet birds can easily break or injure their beaks by engaging in activities such as fighting with other birds, chewing on electric cords, flying into windows or fans or trapping their beak between cage bars. They can even hurt them by falling accidentally onto a hard floor. As a result, the beak can be punctured, fractured or partially or completely torn off the face. If anything like this happens to your bird, it would be best to rush it to the vet immediately.

Another thing to look out for is infectious disease. There are a number of viral, parasitic, bacterial and fungal pathogens that can affect the bird’s beak directly or indirectly. Examples of this are psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), avian pox and scaly leg and face mites. None of them are pretty, but many of them are easily treatable with antibiotics and antifungal treatments.

Then there are those bird beak problems that occur at a much slower rate and may not be noticed until they are already quite well-developed. Some baby birds develop beak abnormalities early on, where their upper or lower beaks grow longer than they should. This is not great for the bird but can be fixed with dental appliances which are similar in application to human braces. Nutritional deficiencies can also cause beak problems, with scaly beaks or overgrown beaks being caused by inappropriate nutrition. Sometimes a bird’s beak can become soft or rubbery. It may take a while to notice these things, but once it has been spotted the bird should be put on a more appropriate diet so that it can recover.

One of the more serious bird beak problems to watch out for is that of cancer. Birds can develop squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma on their beaks which can manifest as an erosion or a discolored mass on the beak. If it is caught early enough it can usually be surgically removed. If you notice anything abnormal about your bird’s beak, the best thing to do is usually to contact the vet as soon as possible. Don’t waste time as you may miss a critical window period that could make all the difference.

CPR Saves Bird Lives

Editor — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 10:47:56 +0000

Understanding the principles of Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR), and being able to put these effectively into practice, could result in saving a life. CPR is used extensively for humans, and has a good success rate on domestic animals such as cats and dogs, but few bird owners are aware that CPR can be performed on their pet birds with very positive results.

Under the correct circumstances, such as when a bird has suffered acute trauma, CPR can save a bird’s life. A bird that has deteriorated due to a long illnessis not likely to benefit from CPR. Whether dealing with a human, dog, cat or bird, the basic principles and techniques of CPR are the same and require quick evaluation of breathing, airway and pulse before CPR can commence.

To determine whether an unconscious bird is breathing, check whether its breast and abdomen is rising and falling. Check the oral cavity to establish that it is clear, and if not, clear the cavity with a finger or a cotton-tipped bud. Check for a heartbeat by listening on either side of the keel bone – a stethoscope will make this task easier.

If the bird has stopped breathing, but you can still hear its heartbeat, begin rescue breathing. Supporting the bird’s head in your one hand, and its body in the other, tilt it slightly away from you. Begin respirations by sealing your lips around the beak and nares (nostrils) for smaller birds. Rescue breathing on larger birds may require that you block the nares with your finger while sealing your lips around the beak. After taking a breath, blow five breaths in quick succession into the bird’s beak. The strength of each puff of breath will be determined by the size of the bird. With each breath, check whether the area where the sternum meets the abdomen rises. If it does not, then you are not getting enough air into the bird’s respiratory tract. Before blowing again, recheck the airway for obstructions. If the bird’s breast rises with each puff, pause for a while to see if it will breathe on its own. If not, repeat the rescue breathing, while at the same time checking whether the bird’s heart is still beating.

If the bird’s heart stops beating while you are performing the rescue breathing, you’ll need to begin CPR. While continuing with the rescue breathing, start adding gentle chest compressions. To meet the needs of the bird’s naturally rapid heart rate, provide between forty and sixty compressions per minute, depending on the size of the bird. Again depending on the size of the bird, place between one and three fingers on the keel bone and apply finger pressure. Depressing the keel or sternum, compresses the heart, which in turn circulates the blood. While being careful not to apply too much pressure, the pressure must be sufficient to visibly see the sternum depress downward, which is best observed where the keel and abdomen meet.

Proceed by giving five puffs of breath, followed by ten compressions, and then check the bird for breathing and heartbeat. If necessary, continue with two breaths, followed by ten compressions, and again two breaths followed by ten compressions. After one minute, reevaluate the bird, and continue at your discretion until you are able to get the bird to an avian veterinarian. If the bird starts breathing, place it in a warm, quiet place until you get it to the vet.

If you feel that you are up to the task of performing CPR on your pet bird, you should check with your avian veterinarian with regard to learning these potentially life-saving techniques. This is just a guide and a veterinarian should always be consulted in matters of your bird’s health.

Why Birds Bite and How to Avoid it

Editor — Mon, 26 Nov 2007 13:35:51 +0000

It can be very disappointing to a bird owner when their beloved pet bird starts biting, often for no apparent reason. This may result in a reluctance to handle the bird, which in turn can lead to further behavioral problems. So why do birds bite and what can be done to overcome this problem?

If you have established that your bird is in good health, the prevention of biting behavior, more often than not, lies in removing whatever may cause the bird to be afraid or stressed. A bird in the wild can fly away when it becomes fearful. A bird in a cage cannot escape and may bite to ward off the perceived danger. Start off with removing all possible sources of fear, such as other pets, and work on gaining the bird’s trust by always speaking in soft, low tones and not making any sudden movements.

Birds use their beaks for feeding, and a friendly pet bird will often see a hand as a source of food, resulting in it biting at an offered hand when you were hoping to get it to sit on your finger. The best solution is to never feed a bird from your hand. Use a spoon, tweezers or offer food in a bowl instead of with your fingers.

Many pet birds love to play and if you are enjoying a play session with your bird there is the possibility that you will be bitten. This can happen if the bird gets over excited or loses its balance. Although such a bite will not be aggressive, it will likely be painful. It is safest to dangle toys from a rope for the bird and not to let younger children handle birds without supervision.

Just about any bird will become territorial over a nesting box and is likely to bite a hand reaching into its territory. In this case, make use of gloves. Some birds get territorial over their owners and will bite other people or pets that may look as though they are going to disturb this exclusive relationship. To prevent injury to others, keep the bird in its cage or another room when others are around, but try not to isolate it for extended periods of time.

Other ways to avoid being bitten are to remove the bird from the cage when cleaning it; be calm, talking in a low tone of voice and not making any sudden moves when approaching your bird; give your bird plenty of love and attention on a daily basis; don’t initiate aggressive playing; be careful of what you wear as bright flashy clothes and nail polish can over-excite some birds; trim the bird’s flight feathers if it is given free reign in your house; and make sure it gets enough undisturbed sleep at night.

Birds can make wonderful companions and, with loving care, your relationship with your pet bird can be a richly rewarding one.

The Important Role of Birds in Pollination

Editor — Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:29:55 +0000

Pollination, whereby pollen grains (male) are transferred to the ovule (female) of a plant, is an irreplaceable step in the reproduction of seed plants. Most plant fruits are unable to develop without pollination taking place and many beautiful flower varieties would die out if not pollinated. Bees and insects are the most common pollinators, but bats and birds are known to do their share in this vital activity. The agent moving the pollen, whether it is moths, bees, bats, wind or birds, is called the “pollinator” and the plant providing the pollen is called the “pollenizer”.

Biotic pollination is the term used when pollination is aided by a pollinator. When this is carried out by birds, the term used is Ornithophily. Hummingbirds, spiderhunters, sunbirds, honeycreepers and honeyeaters are the most common pollinator bird species. Plants that make use of pollination by birds commonly have bright red, orange or yellow flowers and very little scent. This is because birds have a keen sense of sight for color, but generally little or no sense of smell. Bird pollinated flowers produce copious amounts of nectar to attract and feed the birds that are performing the pollination, as well as having pollen that is usually large and sticky to cling to the feathers of the bird.

Hummingbirds are small birds which are found only in the Americas. Their ability to hover in mid air by flapping their wings up to eighty times per second, plus their long curved beaks and a love for sweet nectar, makes them perfect pollinators. Hummingbirds burn up a tremendous amount of energy as they dart about from flower to flower and so they are attracted to the flowers that will give them something in return for their pollinating efforts. The flowers they are particularly fond of include shrimp plants, verbenas, bee balm, honeysuckles, fuchsias, hibiscus and bromeliads.

Sunbirds and spiderhunters feed mainly on nectar, although when feeding young, they often also eat insects. Sunbird species can take nectar while hovering, but usually perch to feed. Their long curved beaks and brush-tipped tubular tongues make these birds particularly suited to feeding on and pollinating tubular flowers.

Honeyeaters resemble hummingbirds in many ways, but are not capable of lengthy hovering flight. Honeyeaters quickly flit from perch to perch, stretching or hanging upside down in order to reach the nectar with their highly developed brush-tipped tongue, while at the same time serving as a pollinator.

Birds are not known for pollinating food growing crops, but this does not mean that they are not important. If it were not for the assistance of our feathered friends, many plant species would be in danger of extinction.

Kiwi Birds

Editor — Sun, 04 Mar 2007 14:04:13 +0000

One of the world’s oddest bird species is the kiwi. This New Zealand bird species seems to break all the rules on what it means to be a bird:

It doesn’t fly,
Its feathers look like fur (the feathers form narrow, waterproof hairs),
It doesn’t have wings or a tail (its wings exist only as small, vestigial stubs hiding under its “fur”),
It has a good sense of smell (very unusual in birds).

This odd, chicken-sized, wingless bird hunts at night, by inserting its long, narrow beak into the forest floor’s soil. It sniffs out its favorite food, earthworms, with its sensitive nostrils. These nostrils are located at the tip of the beak (unlike all other birds, whose nostrils sit atop the beak’s base).

Another kiwi oddity is its enormous eggs. Each egg takes 4 weeks to develop in the female’s body; by the time she lays, it’s a full quarter of her body weight! The huge egg then needs 2-3 months of incubation before it hatches.

New Zealand’s 3 kiwi species are rare in the wild, and are getting rarer all the time. Their populations drop at 6% a year, due to land clearing and introduced predators (like dogs, cats and stoats). But humans are making a big effort to save them from extinction – many kiwis are being transferred from the New Zealand mainland to predator-free islands off the coast, where they are more likely to survive. One translocation, of a handful of Little Spotted Kiwis to Kapiti Island, resulted in a population of over a 1000 birds!

Guide to Birds and Birding

Editor — Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:11:30 +0000

Birds are warm-blooded species, that lay eggs in order to reproduce, they are characterized by feathers, hollow bones and forelimbs that are modified as wings. They range in size from tiny hummingbirds to humongous Ostriches and Emus. There are approximately 10 000 bird species in the world that are known to man, making them the most diverse class of terrestrial vertebrates.

Birds are very different from each other, some birds species feed on nectar whereas other feed on plants, seeds, insects, rodents, fish, carrions, or other birds. Most birds are active during the day and sleeping at night. Some birds such as owls and nightjars are active during the night time (nocturnal).

Many of these feathered friends migrate extensive distances to make use of the most favorable habitats, while others spend almost all their time at sea.

Common characters of birds include a beak with no teeth, the laying of hard-shelled eggs, light strong skeletons and a high metabolic rate. Most birds can fly and also use this method for helping them to find their food and the flee from predators. Flightless species include birds such as penguins, ostriches, kiwis and dodos.

Bird watching or birding (ornithology) is a very popular hobby that includes the observation and study of birds and their habitats. The best times of the year for bird watching in the temperate zones are during spring and fall migration, when the greatest variety of birds may be observed as they make their way north or south. Early morning is the best time for bird watching since many birds are then at their hungriest, searching most actively for food. Birding is usually one of the more relaxing outdoor activities, however some very serious birding enthusiasts will travel very long distances too see a new specie to add to the list of birds they have personally observed.

Sea watching is another type of bird watching where observers based at a coastal watch point, such as a headland, watch birds out at, or moving over, the sea.

Equipment that is usually used for bird watching includes binoculars and a telescope or spotting scope with tripod, a notepad, and one or more field guides.